Mountain Equipment Oreus Hooded Jacket (men's)

How warm it keeps you standing still at camp. 7: Better than most.

Three reviewers agree it is warm for its weight but not a full winter belay jacket: UKC/UKH (Dan Bailey) found it surprisingly toasty for its lightness and used it for belays only on fair-weather days (3); Outdoors Magic found it warmer than expected but a little light for long stops in very cold conditions (3); Trek and Mountain found it astonishingly warm for its weight and fine for belaying in all but the worst conditions (4). Average 3.3 out of 5, so 7 out of 10. UKC's jacket was a pre-production sample, but it weighed 390 g in size L, the figure Mountain Equipment lists now, and has the same Aetherm fill, 10D recycled polyamide outer, PFC-free DWR, two-way zip and inner drop pocket stuff sack, so we count it; Outdoors Magic and Trek and Mountain tested production jackets. Live for the Outdoors rates it 4.5 overall but gives no verdict on warmth standing still, so it isn't counted.

How much it adds to your pack. 8: Clearly better than most.

Mountain Equipment lists 390 g, in the 350-449 g band. No size is given, so this may not be the men's M weight; Ultralight Outdoor Gear lists 397 g for a Medium, Live for the Outdoors 370 g for a men's Medium and UKC weighed 390 g for a size L, all in the same band.